Hand Block Resist Dyed Textile

Stage 9 - Dabu mud-resist is applied where the 1st shade of indigo blue needs to be kept. Dabu can withstand a maximum of 4 dips into the indigo vat.

Stage 10 - The textile is immersed again into the indigo vat & spread in the sun to develop the colour.

Stage 11 - The textile is washed to remove the mud & loose dye. The result is a textile with 2 shades of red, 2 shades of blue, black on white background & magenta where indigo over-dyes red.

More Stages in Hand Block Resist Dying

Stage 5 -Washing removes the printing gums.

Stage 6 - The textile is immersed in a hot alizarin bath for 1 hour to devlop the 2 shades of red.

Stage 7 - Mud-resist paste (clay-earth & gum) is applied with blocks to mask out areas of the design to remain red or white. Sprinkled with sawdust to aid drying.

Stage 8 - Immersed into indigo vat, then spread out in sun to allow blue colour to develop on all unprotected areas.

The Process of Hand Block Printing

One of the displays in the Anokhi Museum I was most impressed with was a sequence of waistcoats that showed the numerous steps involved in hand block printing & dying a textile. Stage one, the textile is treated with Chebulic Myroballan so the pastes & dyes will stick.

Stage 2, The textile is printed with a begar paste (alum) wherever a dark burgundy red is required.

Stage 3, A 2nd mordant paste (again with a temporary tint to guide the printer) is applied to the lighter red areas.

Stage 4, Horseshoes & molassas fermented into a sticky brown paste, oxidises to black when added.

Anokhi Museum, Amber, Jaipur

The Anokhi company, among other activities, helped revive the local hand block printing industry by supporting artisans & their families. It produces block printed garments & products that they sell in their Indian & international retail outlets.

They renovated & restored this old mansion and established a museum to showcase the history of hand block printing and to regularly exhibit work by contemporary clothing designers.

Carpet Weavers in India

The wool yarn is wrapped, knotted & cut in one quick motion.

Naturally dyed yarns from Ibyx goats, sheep and silk worms are used in the carpets.

Dyed skeins are wound into sausage-shaped balls.

The finished carpet is washed with water & salt then left out in the sun to dry for up to 2 weeks.

Paper Makers in Jaipur

We spent a wonderful morning touring Kagzi Industries, paper makers in Jaipur. I was so interested to see the range of papers they made, particularly because I had previously purchased a large amount of their paper from Costco in Canada. Understanding how the paper was made makes it so much more interesting when I work with it.

By the time our tour group was in Jaipur, India was experiencing the coldest temperatures in 40 years. You can see in these images how the paper makers were wrapped in thick shawls, blankets, sweaters & hats to keep warm.

Fresh rose petals are added to the pulp before the sheet is pulled.

This factory makes a vast range of hand made papers and paper products that are exported all over the world.

More Turbans in India

This collection of turbans is in the Cultural Museum in Udaipur. Sorry about the quality of the images. My point 'n' shoot camera couldn't handle the low light or the shiny display cases.

Turbans in India

In India it is amazing what a length of cloth says about it's wearer

Tanvi Kant, Textile Jeweller

Tanvi Kant, a textile jeweller, makes neck art out of old saris having started with one of her mother's. Her parents were born in India but Tanvi has lived all her life in England. We met up with her in Ahmedabad where she was about to begin an 8-week artist residency to develop her designs, meet local crafts people and make connections. It is a UK Art Council programme that plans to develop exchanges with Indian artists & crafts people going to the UK.

We sat on the verandah of the Darbargadh Poshina heritage hotel we were staying in while Tanvi talked about her work and showed us some samples.

Rope making in Patan

Mashru Cloth, Patan, India

Our tour group watched as Mashru cloth was woven with a pit loom

Skeining the hand dyed rayon & cotton thread

The double woven cloth is starched to make it smooth & shiny

Patan Patola, India

I didn't finish telling you about the master weavers who make double ikat silk textiles. Here father and son (an architect) work side by side ...

on a traditional silk sari pattern that they can weave 8" to 9" per day.

This sari took 5 people 6 months to make. No wonder the family members travel all over the world to demonstrate their amazing skill, www.patanpatola.com